Sept. 5

London to Amsterdam

We head for the White Cliffs of Dover and cross the Channel via ferry to Calais, France on our way to Holland and its capital, Amsterdam for the evening and a visit at the infamous " Red Light District". We checked in at Hotel Inntel Zaanstad, in Provincialeweg.

A vibrant Dutch city of tidy gingerbread houses, picturesque canals, and rich in art, and history. The entire center city itself is one large historic district of restored buildings, most of which date from Amsterdam’s golden age in the 17th century. Its fortunes were stimulated by the 1602 founding of the Dutch East India Company whose ships and sailors brought back treasures from the Far East. Soon a network of canals helped transform the city into a huge port. Square-riggers could unload cargoes of silks, Moluccan spices, Chinese Export porcelain, and other riches for barge transport straight into the warehouses and merchant’s elegant canal houses.

Amsterdam Canal Our first night out, we visited the "Red Light District", a popular tourist attraction. We came across Hard Rock Cafe and seeing some people from the tour group, Alan and I decided to taste their local beer, Amstel light. Angela, Geneva and Matthew, traveling together from Sydney, Australia joined us (Alan, Julie, Claire and Jose) on the table. The three Aussies are apprentice chefs for Qantas Airlines. Angela specializes desserts and pastries while Geneva and Matthew, on main meal courses. A special excursion was arrange to see a "passion play" at Casa Rosa.

The neighborhood is a maze of alleys containing more than 300 one-room cabins rented by prostitues who offer their sexual services from behind rose-lit window or glass door. These are government-licensed prostitutes and certainly no local resident appears shocked by the prostitutes or even by the unsavory characters loitering on corners. Oude Kerk, the oldest Gothic church stands in the middle of the Red Light district. It may seem strange that the neighborhood of the city’s oldest religious monument also house practitioners of the world’s oldest profession. But over the centuries' sailors returning to this Netherlands port traditionally came to worship at the Oude Kerk and, being lusty young men, they also pursued matters less ethereal.

My first night out was strictly sightseeing and after a while, we decided to have a drink at the so-called brown cafes, (named for their wooden furnishings and wood-paneled walls mellowed to a golden hue by centuries of tobacco smoke). Heineken beer brewed in Amsterdam since 1864 was the choice for the night. We had to choose a table outside since a haze of pungent smoke wafted from this pub that also serve marijuana and hashish for smoking on the premises. (Patrons actually order it from a menu.) We all got home by 12 midnight. Alan and I decided to have a beer or two at the bar with new found friends Matthew and Geneva. Chris, Andee and Lauren, another Aussie, joined us for a late night caper.

Sept. 6

After a good breakfast, and playing our morning song "....Wake up! It’s a beautiful morning ...", (this song will be our theme song every morning for the rest of our tour), our tour continued to Amsterdam with an orientation tour of the city. We visited Coster Diamonds for a diamond cutting and polishing exhibition. They are the creators of diamonds such as the Koh-i-noor for Queen Victoria. The Lucullan, 181.15 carats, which is the largest rough diamond was on display. For more than 400 years, Amsterdam has been associated with diamonds. Colin and Lianne from Johannesburg, South Africa were not impressed. Their country is also the biggest producers of diamonds. After the tour, we had a choice of seeing Rijkmuseum, which houses the largest and most important collection of art in the Netherlands and the focus, of course, is on the Dutch master -- Rembrandt and Van Gogh; the Heineken Brewery Museum and Anne Frank Huis. The LA gang wanted to see Anne Frank House. The Diary of Anne Frank, written by a teenage Jewish girl sold more than 13 million copies in 60 languages. With the eyes of a child and the writing skills of a girl, she chronicled life in hiding, the continued persecution of the Jews and the progress of the war. On August 4, 1944, the Franks were apprehended and deported to Auschwitz. After the war, the diary was retrieved by Anne's father who survived the concentration camps. Now she lives forever through her diary, which has immortalized her ordeal.

The network of canals -- 160 to be exact, spanned by 1,281 bridges. Alan and I chose a wide, flat-bottomed tour boat with a glass top for our canal tour. Along the banks of most of the canals stand rows of Amsterdam’s trim, narrow canal houses. Capping the tops are gables festooned with ornaments. The most striking features are their gables. Amsterdam lies largely below sea level. Without the dikes on the North Sea coast, he said, it would disappear under water. After tour, we hanged-out in Dam Square waiting for our 11:30 bus pick-up. It is amazing to see people wearing business suits pedaling on a bicycle. Women in high heels pedaling around on a bike! There are over half a million bicycles and almost all of them are old-fashioned one-speeds.

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