July 5 Arrived Zurich Airport 8:20 AM. After having my Swiss Pass validated, I took a train to Zurich HB for a changed train for St. Moritz on a regular Swiss Transport System train. We were soon speeding along the lake areas, and the rural farm country. It was drizzling today and for the last couple of days but it did not dampen my excitement of seeing this place once again (last time I was here, it was raining too).

The first big mountains appear, snow on the summits. We arrived in Chur (pronounced Coor) before noon and everyone has to disembarked and changed train for St. Moritz. There was time to visit this ancient town nestled in the mountains. It is one of the oldest Swiss towns that blends Latin and Germanic appeal. But the rain started pouring and with a backpack over, I decided this place was worth only an hour visit. I boarded for St. Moritz. Many European hikers came aboard here, their bulging backpacks towering above their heads.

We left Chur at 12:50 p.m., relentlessly on time. I am now on a little red train, snaking though a little green country. The scenery is quite enormous and rapidly becoming more Alpine as we leave the Rhine Valley and cut across the grain of the mountains. Cars of the train bend into view as they curve around tight turns ahead. It is a preview of the Glacier Express. I am jetlag by now, the result of an overnight flight from Los Angeles. I had to dozed off.

We arrived in St. Moritz on time. I am booked at Hotel Albana that displays an array of hunting trophies everywhere. Once in my room, I kicked off my shoes and checked the view of Lake of St. Moritz (Lez de San Murrezan); I am in the Swiss Alps.

Sleek St. Moritz has lured international celebrities and crowned heads of Europe since the late 19th century. St. Moritz in any season is an interesting and scenic small town (population about 6,000) that has been made famous by its celebrity guests and its claim as the birthplace of winter sports (site of two Winter Olympics - 1928 and 1948). The Old Town (Dorf), with its grand hotels and chic shops, has developed on the hills facing the Lake of St. Moritz. There is also a newer, lower town, St. Moritz-Bad, which is the spa quarter on flat ground in the Inn River Valley. The iron-rich waters of the region are said to have great curative qualities.

I took a quick exploratory walk about town to work up an appetite for dinner. Checking out shops, restaurants and its menu along the way. The menus were in German, French, Italian and sometimes Japanese but not in English. I would not mind spending $25.00 for dinner if I knew what I was eating. $25.00 seemed reasonable in a country that is often called expensive. So I settled for Kalbsbratwurst.

July 6 I woke up early and the sun was peeking through the clouds. I was hoping that the weather will improve after several days of cloudy and rainy conditions across the European continent.

After breakfast, I was ready to explore the Engadine Valley. I stroll down to the lake, Lej da Staz, through its wooded forest and running streams, on my way to Pontresina. At Punt Muragl, I took the same funicular that carries hikers onto a ridge called Muottas Muragl, 8,062 ft., above the valley. The hike began with a slight descent into Val Puragl. It started snowing (in July!). After crossing the mountain stream, the path divides between a steep zigzag path up to the Segantini cabin and the less difficult path, at medium altitude to the lower Schafberg and on to the Alp Languard, 7,641 ft. I chose the latter (I was still recovering from my jetlag). The view was breathtaking with expansive views of the snowy Bernina Range, and the alpine countryside of the Upper Engadine. At Alp Languard one can descend by foot or an airy chair lift to the village Pontresina, 5,927 ft. After 3 1/2 hrs of hiking, it was an easy decision. To see more photos ...

Pontresina is another winter resort village located east of Samedan en route to Tirano and offers views south to the Bernina Massif. It was Sunday and most shops and restaurants in town were closed. The only ones open are by the rail station which caters to tourists. Again the menus were not in English. Frustrated, I headed back to St. Moritz for an Engadiner Rosti - shredded potatoes fried golden hashed browned with melted local cheese, prosciutto and air-dried beef - all washed down with a full-bodied Swiss beer. Dessert and truffles came after. For dinner, I had sliced veal 'Zurich Style' with champignons on cream sauce and hashed browned croquettes.

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