Sienna to Rome

We arrived in Roma and checked in to our hotel, Villa St. Dominique at Via Cassia. Then onto the seven hills of Rome. The traffic here in reminds me of back home (every one for himself). Rome, in all its layers, has more than 26 centuries of history -- from pagan eighth-century B.C. settlements near the mouth of the Tiber; to neighbor and rival the Estruscans; then home of the Roman Republic in the sixth century B.C.; realm of Julius Ceasar; seat of a rise-and-fall Empire; Christianity’s martyred battleground; citadel of the papacy; capital of an Italian nation unified in 1870; crucible of fascism; la dolce vita hot sport of postwar Europe. The tour bus took us around to the historic sights of ancient Rome - Castel Sant’Angelo on the banks of Tiber, Capitoline Hill, Piazza Venezia fronting the monument of Victor Emmanuel II, the Colosseum, the Roman Forum (Foro Romano), and St. Peter’s Square. Monuments everywhere. Museums. Ruins. Churches. Tombs. Excavations.

We were dropped off and preceded to do the evening passeggiata (stroll) towards the Trevi Fountain. We just came right at the time they flick the lights. This place may be the single most popular tourist site in Rome. It is a circus here! The central figure is the sea god Neptune...the work of sculptor Niccolo Salvi...basin holds coins thrown by those who wish to return one day to Rome. It is said that the soldiers of Agrippa, looking for water in the via Collatina in the country, met a maiden who showed them the source of this pure water, which was hence called Virgin Water. Legend says that whoever drinks or throws 3 coins (one on each shoulder and one for a wish) in the Fontana di Trevi will be assured of his return to Rome. I toss a coin over my shoulder and wish that it will not be for the last time.

Continuing on, we reach the Pantheon. One of Rome’s best preserved buildings from antiquity. Some of Italy’s famous sovereigns and artists (Raphael) are buried in this dome. The Piazza della Rotonda faces the entrance and this lovely square has a fountain at its center (the obelisk which was liberated from an ancient site in Egypt) and several restaurants on three sides. The scent of oregano drifts from the kitchens and musicians play Neopolitan tunes on an accordion. Antipasto, cannelloni, salad, bread and wine were making me hungry.

Then onto Piazza Navona where the Fountain of the Four Rivers and cafes filled with tourist are situated. This used to be an oval stadium built in A.D. 86 for races, then remodeled by Borromini during the baroque era. Street artists, and three fountains -- including Bernini’s renowned Fountain of Four Rivers. The four figures represent the Danube, the Ganges, the Nile and the River Plate (Rio de la Plate). Dinner was served at the Taverna di Giovanni overlooking the Castel Sant’Angelo. This was ordered by Emperor Hadrian as his tomb, later transformed into a fortress and then prison. The dinner cost 32000 lira ($22.25), very expensive (Rome is an expensive city though). It was fitting to be dining near this place where legend tells us that during a solemn procession made in 590 by St. Gregory the Great, to implore the Virgin to put an end to the plague which was devastating the city, an angel appeared in the sky and came to rest on the mausoleum, sheathing his sword as a sign of grace granted.

Sept. 11

Rome & Vatican City

This morning I took the guided tour to the Vatican City the see the famous Sistine Chapel (Capella Sistina) and St. Peter’s Basilica (Basilica di San Pietro). Tourists were everywhere. The Sistine Chapel is the most coveted sight in all and a tourist icon, contained Michelangelo’s creations, which was recently be restored. The most impressive is the ceiling that displays the Creation as told in the book of Genesis and the Last Judgement on the wall above the main altar. Just imagine his patience and devotion in painting this ceiling lying down.

The Vatican Museum on the hand contains collections that date back in the 16th century. The most significant one if the Transfiguration by Raphael and the Virgin and Angels by Fra Angelico. The guided tour was very educating but it’s hard to keep track on everything she was saying. Besides she was among the many guides conducting the tour at the same time.

St. Peter’s Basilica was said to be the second largest church in the world, the site of Christianity. Inside is the Michelangelo’s best sculpture -- Pieta. He did four of these statues, this one when he was 25 years old. It’s hard to write down in a few sentences the awesome description of the interior of the Basilica. The Canopy covering the papal altar and the Chair of St. Peter by Bernini, the inside of the Dome of St. Peter by Michelangelo, St. Peter’s crypt and all those mosaic paintings. Truly during the Renaissance period, the only prestigious career then was to be a sculptor or a painter. I had enough of history that morning. After a small prayer, checking out the rosaries at the souvenir shops and posing of souvenir pictures at the St. Peter’s Square, I caught up with the LA gang and we decided to get something to eat before our tour bus picks us up at 12 noon. Pilgrimage to the Vatican is over.

In the bus, we all changed to shorts as dress codes were enforced inside the church. The afternoon was free time and the bus was willing drop us off any location we wanted to see. My group (Aussies & Afrikanners) decided to be drop off the Roman Forum. We found out that you have to pay to get inside. So we head off to the Colosseum. I guess every city has one icon that symbolizes the city. In Venice the gondola, in Paris it’s the Eiffel Tower and in Rome the Colosseo. Completed in the 1st century A.D., it was in this 50,000-seat stadium that Christians were thrown to the lions and other public events tool place. Outside the Colosseo is the grandest arch of them all, the Arch of Constantine. It was erected in the fourth century A.D. to commemorate one of the emperor’s military victories.

Then for the next hour of so, we wandered, each giving his own direction towards McDonalds. Six people craving for hamburger, with cameras, with a city map trying to navigate its way towards McDonalds. Our excuse was, we wanted to see the Spanish Steps and Trinita dei Monti at Piazza di Spagna. For hamburger that cost $7.00, I am still full from lunch. It only cost 99 cents back home. The Spanish Steps (Scalinata di Piazza di Spagna) were undergoing renovation and cleanup at that time. The first thing that strikes me is the steps whose lines harmoniously follow the slope of the hill. At the top of the Spanish step is the church of the Trinita dei Monti and lying at the steps is another fountain by Pietro Bernini, Fountain of the Barcaccia. Continuing our way to the Pantheon, we pass through Via Condotti an elegant and fashionable street where the best Italian and International names in clothing and footwear reside. (Another Rodeo Drive, I said.) At three o’clock in the afternoon the shops were closed. Business hours here is 9am to 1pm and 4 to 8pm. I could work here.

Crossing the streets is just like home or New York. On our way, we passed labyrinth of ancient alleys and byways. Some do not have sidewalks along these narrow routes, but all the passages are named and, with the help of our map, It’s hard to get lost. We reach the Pantheon and since the admission is free, decided to wander inside. The original building, built by Marcus Agrippa in the reign of Augustus Ceasar (around 27 B.C.) as a temple to all the gods, was a rectangular structure. All but the front columns and portico were later destroyed by the fire, and when it was rebuilt by the Emperor Hadrian (A.D. 130), it took on a dome form. The inside of the dome has a diameter equal its height. There are no electrical lights inside the dome. Natural light comes from the hole in the center of the ceiling. There is a spot in the near-perfect marble floor where one can stand directly below the oculus above. In storms, rain falls here and then drains away in all direction because the floor is almost imperceptibly domed at the center. This slight crest may be more sensed than seen. In the near center also stood a status of Jove Ultor who punished the assassins of Caesar. Here also was the burial place of Raphael, the first two kings and the first queen of Italy.

We came upon Piazza Venezia and Piazza del Popolo. Fronting these piazzas is the Campidoglio (Capitoline Hill) where an imposing marble Victor Emanuel II Monument was built to commemorate Italian unity in 1870 and the Renaissance Palazzo Venezia. It is said to be sacred to the Romans and the destination of the triumphal processions of victorious generals. The Basilica of S. Maria d Aracoeli rises on the highest point of the Capitol. The Palazzo Senatorio at the back of the square was built in the 13th century on the ancient ruins of the Tabularium. It has been a long day of walking and we decided to rest by the steps of the Palazzo dei Conservatori at the Piazza del Campidoglio which features the famous sculpture of the wolf suckling the twins Romulus and Remus. (I was not aware till later and thus missed it.) Michelangelo designed the flight of steps as well as all the Cordonata, built especially for the triumphal entry of the Emperor Charles V in 1536. The Palace is the mayor’s residence now. Descending to Via San Pietro, we were given a hillside view of the Foro Romano (Roman Forum). Since it was getting late, we decided to just get a glimpse from the hillside. The Forum is something I definitely will explore when I get back to Rome someday. It was the political, religious and commercial center of republican Rome.

At 5 PM, we met up with everybody at the Roman Forum for our bus pick-up. Dinner was at the hotel and drinks afterwards were at my room. We bought a couple of vino at the store nearby the hotel. Everybody was invited but only my roommates and my group were there.